Since moving to Washington, Emily and I had been exploring the nearby cities and mountains, but we hadn’t taken a multi-day road trip anywhere. It was time to really take advantage of the summer weather here, and I had heard amazing things about Whidbey Island, the largest of the Puget Sound islands. It’s close enough for a 2 day trip, and there’s a ton to do in the area: parks, beaches, gardens, historical sites, art galleries, and a lot of great views.

I thought it would be fun to keep the trip details a secret from Emily. Throughout the trip, she never knew what we were doing or where we were going until we got there. If you’ve never planned a secret trip for someone, try it. It was stressful but ultimately rewarding and very entertaining.

The variety of outdoor activities can also make Whidbey Island a relatively cost-effective trip. This is especially true if you already have a Discover Pass, which gives you access to state parks around the state. An annual pass is $30, which is absolutely worth it if you want to explore different parks, trails, etc. throughout the year. Otherwise, you can get a day pass for $10.

So, after a lot researching, planning, and re-planning, here’s the schedule I came up with:

Day 1

• 7:00a – 7:40a: Drive to Mukilteo
• 8:30a – 8:50a: Ferry to Clinton
• 8:50a – 9:20a: Drive to Meerkerk Gardens
• 9:20a – 10:35a: Meerkerk Gardens
• 10:35a – 11:05a: Drive to Langley
• 11:05a – 11:35a: Hang out in Langley
• 11:35a – 12:20p: Langley Whale Center
• 12:20p – 1:05p: Drive to Fort Casey
• 1:05p – 2:35p: Fort Casey + lunch
• 2:35p – 2:50p: Drive to Fort Ebey
• 2:50p – 3:50p: Fort Ebey
• 3:50p – 4:20p: Drive to Deception Pass
• 4:20p – 8:00p: Deception Pass
• 8:00p – 8:30p: Drive to Burlington
• 8:30p – 9:30p: Bangkok Bistro
• 9:30p – 9:45p: Drive to hotel

Day 2

• 7:30a – 8:05a: Drive to Anacortes
• 9:05a – 10:10a: Ferry to Friday Harbor
• 10:30a – 5:30p: Kayaking
• 6:30p – 7:35p: Ferry to Anacortes
• 7:35p – 8:30p: Coconut Kenny’s
• 8:30p – 10:00p: Drive home

(Okay, I guess day 2 wasn’t technically on Whidbey Island… but close enough.)

Drive to Mukilteo (7:00a – 7:40a)

The easiest (and most fun) way to get to Whidbey Island is by ferry from Mukilteo to Clinton. If you’re taking a car, you can drive it right onto the ferry for a slightly higher price. The drive to the terminal is easy. Emily tried to figure out where we were going, but whenever she saw signs for Mukilteo, she joked: “Oh, are we going to Mukilteo?” Imagine her surprise when we actually arrived in Mukilteo.

On the summer schedule, the ferries leave every 30 minutes or so, but the line of cars can get long in the morning. Fortunately we planned enough time to miss the first ferry, which is exactly what happened. Once we passed the tollbooth, they assigned us to a line to load the ferry.

Miles: 24

Ferry to Clinton (8:30a – 8:50a)

After driving onto the ferry, we parked our car and walked up to the passenger level. The views on the water are really nice, but it can get windy and chilly outside! Fortunately we were able to enjoy the views from inside, while contributing to a puzzle that was on one of the tables. The ferry ride is only 20 minutes, but honestly I wouldn’t have minded a little longer.

Cost: $13.40 (2 passengers + 1 car)

Drive to Meerkerk Gardens (8:50a – 9:20a)

With a population of less than 1000, Clinton didn’t seem like the most exciting place to hang out… so we drove off the ferry and immediately headed for Meerkerk Gardens. Whidbey Island is long and narrow with essentially one highway (SR 525/20) running down the middle, making it straightforward to navigate the island. Although Meerkerk was past some of our other destinations, it opened the earliest, letting us squeeze more into our day.

Miles: 16

Meerkerk Gardens (9:20a – 10:35a)

A short detour off of SR 525 lies Meerkerk Gardens, a really peaceful nonprofit garden with miles of walking trails. It features 100s of types of rhododendrons, which I learned is a type of flower. That should tell you how much I know about flowers. But even I enjoyed the calmness of the gardens. We didn’t see a single person until the end of our visit, not even at the admissions gate. The “rhodies” weren’t in full bloom anymore, but it was still a beautiful and relaxing way to start our trip.

Cost: $10 (2 people)

Drive to Langley (10:35a – 11:05a)

From Meerkerk, we backtracked down to Langley now that things were starting to open. Not the most efficient route, but I think it worked out for the best.

Miles: 14

Hang out in Langley (11:05a – 11:35a)

Langley is an artsy little town on the edge of the island. We spent some time walking around and dropping into a few of the art galleries featuring local artists. My favorite was Callahan’s Firehouse, a glass gallery with endless glass fish, paperweights, and other pieces. We watched the artist making another one, and it looked like you could blow your own glass to take home. Across the street we spotted Gregor Rare Books, a small bookstore with a unique selection of old and first edition books. It was really cool to see such early versions of familiar books.

Emily is a big knitter, so we had to stop by Knitty Purls, the local yarn store.

And just next door was the Whidbey Island Gem Gallery with a huge variety of gemstones and minerals. The owner pointed out a beach area behind the store with a great view, but we decided not to go further after hearing stories about people losing their shoes in the quicksand-like seaweed.

There were other stores we would have loved to drop by but simply didn’t have time. If we take another trip to Whidbey, I think we’d stop at Langley again.

Cost: $0

Langley Whale Center (11:35a – 12:20p)

This is one of the main reasons I put Langley on the list. The center is run by Orca Network, a nonprofit that raises awareness about whales in the area and the importance of protecting them. The center is small but has lots of displays, posters, and information. Best of all, the staff was very knowledgeable and passionate about their cause and the local whales. We learned about different types of whales, the 3 local pods (J, K, and L), and the ongoing fight to free Lolita, a whale captured and kept at the Miami Seaquarium.

Neither of us knew much about whales going in, but we’ve both done further reading since our visit. It was particularly interesting to learn about the whales in the Puget Sound area. And as you’ll see, the center fits perfectly with the rest of our trip.

Cost: $0

Drive to Fort Casey (12:20p – 1:05p)

Fort Casey is more than halfway up the island, but it’s an easy drive and pretty scenic, especially as you enter the park.

Miles: 24

Fort Casey + lunch (1:05p – 2:35p)

Fort Casey was originally built to defend the Puget Sound. It is one of three forts strategically placed in a triangle around the entrance of the sound. Now, it’s a state park with a lighthouse, bunkers, and huge disappearing guns. I loved walking around the fort and reading the various signs that explained its historical significance. The park also has a huge field where we played frisbee and watched people fly kites.

The park’s location on the coast gives you some incredible water views too. We climbed up a small hill to the top of the fort, laid out a blanket, and set up a small picnic for lunch. Eating didn’t take long, but we spent close to an hour just relaxing in the sun and gazing out over the bay.

I think Emily could have spent another hour there, but we had more to do!

Cost: $0 (with Discover Pass) + $5 for a packed lunch

Drive to Fort Ebey (2:35p – 2:50p)

At this point, the walking and the heat were starting to tire us out, and I almost wished for a long drive. So of course this was the shortest drive of the trip.

Miles: 9

Fort Ebey (2:50p – 3:50p)

Fort Ebey was also intended to defend the Puget Sound, though it was built decades later during World War II. The fort features more big guns, but the more interesting part is the underground bunkers. We walked down a number of hallways and peeked into different rooms. Some areas were pitch-black and I regretted not having a flashlight. (Phone lights didn’t quite do the trick.) It was actually a little creepy… but very cool to be able to walk around an old bunker.

I know there was a lot more to explore in the park, but I didn’t want to drain our energy before the most exhausting activity of the day.

Cost: $0 (with Discover Pass)

Drive to Deception Pass (3:50p – 4:20p)

Finally, we were on our way to what I viewed as the highlight of day 1. We drove right through Oak Harbor, the largest city on Whidbey Island, which has some attractions of its own. If we take another trip to Whidbey Island, I’ll try to plan a couple of hours there.

Miles: 18

Deception Pass (4:20p – 8:00p)

Deception Pass is at the northernmost part of Whidbey Island. The prominent landmark is the Deception Pass Bridge, which connects Whidbey Island to Fidalgo Island. The bridge is part of SR 20, so you can drive across very easily. But if you can stomach the 180 foot height, I would highly recommend parking nearby and walking across the bridge and back.

I usually get queasy easily, but I was able to look over the edge without my stomach imploding. Maybe I was too distracted by the stunning views of the pass on both sides of the bridge:

After lots of photos and gawking, we were ready to do our favorite outdoor activity since moving to the Pacific Northwest: hike! I looked into both Goose Rock on the south side of the bridge and Rosario Head on the north side, and for reasons I don’t remember, I chose Goose Rock. According to the Washington Trails Association, the trail is 4.3 miles roundtrip, but we must have started at the wrong spot as our hike was shorter.

Considering how tired we were, neither of us was particularly disappointed to get this view for less work than expected:

As with most of our destinations, I know there was even more to do at Deception Pass, and I would definitely go again.

Cost: $0 (with Discover Pass)

Drive to Burlington (8:00p – 8:30p)

We went to Burlington for no other reason than cheaper hotels. I was a little late in booking a hotel, so the hotels around Anacortes were very expensive. The drive took a reasonable 20 minutes – no big deal.

Miles: 17

Bangkok Bistro (8:30p – 9:30p)

We rarely pass up the opportunity to try different Thai places, so Bangkok Bistro was an easy choice for dinner. It’s a cozy little restaurant run by a family from Thailand. The owner was very friendly and casual, exactly what you’d want from a local restaurant. We shared two of our favorite dishes: crab rangoons and chicken fried rice. Very authentic, I know.

Cost: $22.33

Drive to hotel (9:30p – 9:45p)

Actually, we drove to Walgreens first to pick up some aloe. Emily and the sun don’t always like each other…

Miles: 1

Cost: $87.30 (hotel)

Drive to Anacortes (7:30a – 8:05a)

We started day 2 bright and early in order to catch a ferry. I had to tell Emily the day’s plans the previous night (for planning reasons), but I wish I could have kept them a secret. There’s nothing like putting someone in your car and driving without telling them where you’re going.

I’m not a kidnapper, I promise.

Miles: 20

Ferry to Friday Harbor (9:05a – 10:10a)

We parked near the harbor and walked to the ferry. You can drive onto this ferry too, but we didn’t need a car on San Juan Island, so we didn’t bother.

Cost: $10.30 (parking) + $26.50 (2 passengers roundtrip)

Kayaking (10:30a – 5:30p)

Alas, the highlight of day 2 and perhaps the whole trip. We were long overdue for some water activities in Washington. I had heard that the area was great for whale watching tours on boats, but I thought we would enjoy something more involved. I booked a full day kayaking tour with a touring company called Outdoor Odysseys, hoping to catch a glimpse of some orcas around the island. I could bore you with the details of how we got to the site, what kind of kayak we used, etc. Or I could show you this picture:

We were fortunate enough to see orcas on several separate occasions. And they came pretty close to us too:

We stopped at a small cove for a tasty lunch provided by Outdoor Odysseys. We saw a humpback whale in the distance, but unfortunately I didn’t get a picture.

Our guide said it was the most successful tour he has done, in terms of orca sightings. Then again, he probably would have said that even if we saw 0 whales… but it’s more fun to think that the orcas were naturally attracted to us. Yeah, let’s go with that.

Cost: $200.68

Ferry to Anacortes (6:30p – 7:35p)

We didn’t have to worry about buying ferry tickets since our previous tickets were roundtrip.

Cost: $0

Coconut Kenny’s (7:35p – 8:30p)

We were very hungry at this point, so we didn’t want to drive far for dinner. Our pick was a pizza place in Anacortes called Coconut Kenny’s. We looked up the menu in the car, and Emily was sold on the cheese balls: “Hawaiian bread balls baked fresh with butter & garlic.” But it was the Mac Attack pizza (macaroni and cheese and BBQ sauce) that I won’t forget. And yes, macaroni does belong on a pizza.

Cost: $24.17

Drive home (8:30p – 10:00p)

We drove on I-5 east of the water, which is faster than driving back down the island and avoids any ferry hassles late at night.

Miles: 63

Overall, the trip cost just under $400 plus the gas to drive 206 miles. Not bad for an amazing weekend trip, especially considering that $200 of it was for the unforgettable kayaking experience. If kayaking isn’t your style, or you want to go for 3 days, you could easily fill another day with other activities. Here are some things I initially had on my list but couldn’t fit in:

• Double Bluff Beach (a local recommended this to us as well)
• South Whidbey Island State Park
• Farmers markets around the island
• More hiking at Deception Pass
• More time in Langley